Lost Items, Big and Small!

PS- One of the things that we have come to understand after visiting the historic sites around the world is that just about any missing antiquity, be it a gem studded crown, or a collossus statue- is likey to be found in a British museum.  It seems that at one time or another the imperial minded brits had taken bits and pieces from any culture they had conquered.   Likewise, any missing or lost items from the Hopper's packs will most likely turn up in Noa's bags!  Could be they were snuck there since he is the mini sherpa (See Susie's Packing List blog).  Thus we have a new phrase each time some item like suglasses or ipod are missing- "it must be in Noa's bag or else the British museum.."

Outer Mongolia!

It is Monday the 13th at 11:00 PM at night in Ulaan Bataar in Mongolia- 8:00 AM at home in SD.  Since Germany we have been through Hong Kong and Cambodia and have seen lots of fun, incredible, ancient, and some sad things.  Those write ups and pictures will have to wait for a few weeks.  Tomorrow we leave at 4:00 AM to outer Mongolia for a 10 day trek on horseback, camel, and feet- and we will not have access to any internet until the 25th when we return to civilization.   Its hard to believe that there are still places in the world that are so remote- but we have luckily found one of them.
Signing off until then- cheers, love and hugs from Les, Susie, and Noa

A vist to Germany (June 4-6)

After our very early morning flight from Cairo, we landed in Frankfurt International and, now that we were experts with the German Bahn, proceeded to hall our bags to a quick ICE train to Bochum in northern Germany to visit our dear friends Jorg Shope and his significant other Gabi.   Gabi met us at the rail station and took us to their peaceful home amidst the rural farming area outside of the city for a few days of rest and good German food.   We had also sent all of our cold weather gear for Mongolia to their house so that we did not need to carry it for the first legs of the trip.

After three big cities in a row we were very ready to just relax for a few days.  After our all night flight and travel by train Noa slept for a whole day.   Luckily for us, both Gabi and Jorg are homeopathic doctors and run their own practice (In addition, Jorg teaches medical classes at the local university), so we had several days to get all of our traveling ailments fixed (I was finally able to have my ankle looked at).   Noa was sad to find that he missed Jorg putting a few injections into my ankle to help it heal.   Jorg has twin sons, David and Phillip, that I have known since they were born and are now in university.   They still remember a trip to San Diego when they were Noa’s age when they slept our old Landcruiser (they call it the “Monster Truck”).   In Bochum it is high summer and it was daylight until almost 10:00 PM.  Our first night we went for a nice walk along a lake and then had dinner at an outdoor café with the family.  The boys were quite the hit with the waitresses while sporting their “euro” fashion.  During dinner we had some long discussions about German University, and I was shocked to find that school is heavily subsidized by the government once you qualify- meaning affordable compared to the never ending tuition hikes in the States.  Perhaps we will have Noa spend a few years in Germany for college.

During the days Jorg was teaching a seminar, so Gabi was our host.  She has brushed up on her English just for our visit, and the table was never empty of good things to snack on.  Most of our time was spent  eating fresh bread, cheese, and fruits, and just catching up on life.  The highlight was a full BBQ on our last evening with the boys and Jorg’s parents coming for a visit.   His parents are wonderful and presented us each with very nice gifts.  The last time Susie and I had visited, when Noa was about three, they had given us a small German toy truck.  The BBQ featured the “best stake I ever had” per Noa, fresh fish, and a plate of fresh baked pastries for dessert. 

The next morning Gabi took Noa to the local bookstore to stock him up for the next leg of the trip, gave us some bread and cheese for the journey, and then it was a last minute trip back to the Bahn for our over- night flight to Hong Kong.    

PS- the boys taught Noa the German word for that game where you grab the other guy’s chest and twist until he whistles!  Very painful but too funny-  Its” NIPSCZICKER!”

Egypt Part 4- Exiting

Our biggest concern in going to Egypt was figuring out how we were going to leave.  The US consulate had posted a warning that, due to the recent Revolution, a curfew had been enacted for all drivers in Cairo from 2:00 AM to 5:00 AM.  Because we had used our free miles to fly, the only flight available to us for departure left at 4:30AM, right in the middle of the curfew!!  So how were we going to get to the airport?  We were not about to ask Ahmed to wake up in the middle of the night to take us, and we were not sure if a Cairo Taxi would be safe either (Visions of Noa being sold on the black market as a blond haired camel jockey).  Do we just stay up all night and go early to camp out at Cairo International, or would there be some intrepid driver willing to break the rule and perhaps go to jail with us in tow?    There was also the consideration that the 20 minute driving distance from our hotel to the airport took almost 3 hours to cover on our arrival. We worried about this for several days and finally were assured by Abdulla, our concierge, that the Oberoi Hotel had special drivers that they worked with that were “exempt” from the curfew.  So we enjoyed our last few hours at the pool with trepidation, had some room service dinner, and got to bed about midnight.  45 minutes later, we had a wake-up call to begin our exit from the wonders of the pyramids and the Oberoi.  Our driver was very friendly, and in broken English pointed out some of the more elaborate Mosques on the way to the airport.  Even at 2:00 AM Cairo was teeming with activity- and we realized that most people hid from the heat during the day and came out to enjoy the cooler nights.   Many sat in plastic chairs on the bridge across the Nile River, drinking lemonade and smoking shisheesh flavored with apple tobacco.  Our car ride was indeed only about 30 minutes, due to the absence of traffic, and after clearing customs once again, we all breathed a very weary sigh of relief that we had successfully journeyed to the ancient land of the Pharaohs.

Egypt Part 3 -by Les

The next morning Ahmed was waiting out front bright and early.  We stopped by an ATM to get some Egyptian Pounds (about 6 EP per dollar) to pay the museum entries, and made a stop around the corner at a falafel stand for a typical Egyptian style breakfast.  This consisted of pita filled with fava bean falafel and chips (fries).  We had ours sans lettuce due to the possible microbes.  The sandwich and fries cost about 20 cents US and tasted like heaven!  We suddenly realized that we could survive in Cairo for weeks on about ten dollars..

For the next two days Ahmed took us to various cultural sites that he felt would give us the most for our three days, and in between bantered stories with Noa about the Eygptian National water polo team.  The first day we went to the National Museum, which was looted in January during the rebellion by some of Mubarek’s personal guard.  But nonetheless it was filled with treasures, and we learned about the history of the 30 Pharaohnic dynasties, the uniting of north and south Egypt, and the riches found in King Tut’s tomb.  We saw mummified Pharaohs, and ancient hieroglyphics depicting the Gods- Vulture for Sorth upper area, and Cobra for the North lower area, in addition to many others.  We learned about the god nicknamed "Yum Yum" with crocodile body and hippo head that judges people for the afterlife and eats the sinners.  

After that we went to visit the beautiful Alabaster Mosque built by Mohammed Ali (not the fighter) within the citadel of the great leader Suladin (who fought King Richard during the Crusades).  We learned all about Islam, and took some photos inside the Mosque with locals curious to see blond haired visitors.   We learned about the Five Pillars of Islam, and most importantly that the Muslim faith is not much different from our Christian beliefs.   Finally, we ended the day with a walk around the street market, which is called the Souq.  Here various vendors are desperately trying to  sell their wares, and we heard some very creative lines in English.  “Come and visit and I will tell you what you need!” or the more obvious, "How can I take your money?"  Hmmm.  We decided that we did not really need anything but a snack, and settled into a café to enjoy some more Lebanese mussef, kebab and falafel.  While sitting there, a number of retired Aussies were smoking away comparing their bargains, and we tried a puff on the traditional hooka, called a sheesha, with apple-flavored tobacco.  One puff only was plenty!  But for a moment we were living the life in Cairo!

The final day was spent at the great pyramids.  The great pyramid is 146 meters high and has enough blocks to completely enclose france with a 3 meter high wall!  This was followed by a trip to the the very first "step" pyramids in Sukkara designed by the engineer and priest Imhotep. Yes the same one in the hollywood "Mummy" movies.  Only the real Imhotep was very smart and good.  We did a tour inside one of the tombs- after which we all decided this was NOT the way to be buried.  And by the way- the Pharoahs did not sacrafice all of their slaves and relatives to be entombed with them- which is the popular belief in the west.  There is much, much more that Ahmed taught us during our visit but that is best saved for a book report by master Noa...

Ottoman Cresent

Looking out of the tomb

Pharoah's Barge





Egypt Part 2

Egypt and Morocco were high on our wish list of places to visit when planning the trip.  Of course we had concerns about a visit to North Africa.  Starting with Cairo on January 25th, on regime after another was in the middle of coup to oust the sitting dictator.  Each night the previous week we would consider our options.  Marrakesh?  Well there was a bombing there in March so maybe that was still a bit hot.  Libya, Iran, Jordan?  Not likely..   Finally a few emails from a local guide that was recommended to us from one of Susie’s former students gave us the feeling that Cairo was safe enough for US tourists- and after bartering away the last of our free air miles- off we went!  

Upon landing in Cairo, we experienced the next level of the stampeding herd – both on the plane and into immigrations (see Madagascar 1).  Women and children were pushed out of the way while the plane was still moving on the runway and the mad dash was on.  As we walked in we were caught in a cacophony of middle- eastern people wearing all colors of jelabas, tunics, and burkas.  As we stood their dumbfounded, a well-dressed man, named Mustafa, approached holding a sign with our family name and said “please follow me Mr. Hopper”  We were immediately escorted past the aforementioned long lines of colorfully clad peoples and “escorted” through immigration in about three minutes!   Our guide, Ahmed, had said that he would be waiting outside to meet us, so we were a little leery of our newfound best friend, Mustafa. Was he for real? He took away our passports . . . and brought them back promptly.  But upon exiting the baggage area Ahmed was there waving, and after a quick discussion in Arabic with our sharp dressed friend, it turned out that his name was Mustafah, and he had come from the Oberoi hotel where we were to stay.  That was our first of many pleasant surprises in Egypt.  Noa jumped on the baggage cart, and Ahmed said “yella, yella,”  - lets go!

Not knowing where to stay in Cairo, we had asked Ahmed and he went ahead and set us up at the Oberoi hotel near the pyramids.  Not knowing about the hotel, we had just said “whatever you think is best.”  So you can imagine our surprise when, after a 3 hour ride in the car stuck in Cairo traffic jams ( we learned that the traffic lights and lane lines are just suggestions), we crossed the Nile and arrived in Giza at our gate guarded 5 star hotel Next to the great Pyramids!  Upon seeing that the foyer was bigger than our house, we told Ahmed that we could not afford to stay there.  But it seems that he is friends with the concierge and it was the start of the low season – meaning 110- 140 degree days.   The Oberoi, we found, was the oldest hotel in Cairo and dated back to 1863.  The original “palace” wing was lined with old sepia photos of early excavations and British explorers taking tea.  We had a garden room reserved in the new wing far from the hotel entry. 

Next the concierge, Abdulla, asked if we wanted to upgrade to a palace suite with a view of the pyramids (for about double the price), and we politely declined, needing to save some money for the next adventure.  On the way to our cheaper garden room, he took us by the palace suite we had turned down – “just to show us,” and then presented the keys and said it was ours for no charge.   We could not believe our luck! He was so nice!  The spare bathroom was as big as most our home bedroom and living room combined!  Susie did a gig and Noa ran around listening to his echo.  There was a tower of finger deserts and free waters.  Outside our patio, again gargantuan, was the great pyramid.   We had never been in such a place and were bordering on canceling our site-seeing just to lounge about in opulence- but ancient Egypt was calling…

Cairo cars & traffic

Pyramid RIGHT outside the balcony

4 room Sheik suite

Infinity pool for Noa's delight

Smarta Carsa in Roma!

This is going backwards a bit now but we had to post a note about the Roma Smartcars.  It seemed that every third car was either a Smartcar of a version of one.   And with the lack of street parking in the old city what a perfect way to go.  They fit in between other cars easily, and can even park sideways (nose pointing toward street) and still fit!
PS- we realized that to speak Italian you just add "a" or "o" to everything or even "imo" if going all out.  For instance-  "Noa isa alwaysa lastimo."

Noa meets a Sphinx!

Quick Video clip in Cairo...

Study History in Person!

Highly recommended if ever possible... Textbooks can try, but being here is "priceless"

We are so lucky!

Crazy Cairo is Cool! (June 1 -3)

We had an absolute awesome time in Cairo, Egypt last week. Mainly because our guide, Ahmed, was so positive, so smart, and so enthusiastic every minute (he's a 28 year old Egyptologist and former Natl. Egypt Team waterpolo player). Noa loved him! We have so much to say and share about Egypt: the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx, the welcoming people, the Muslim religion we learned so much about, burned buildings in Tehrir Square, all of King Tut's stuff, the most amazing Palace suite we were upgraded to at the Mena House Oberoi hotel, the million mosques & call to prayer trumpeting throughout the city, the Nile River (sadly, with no more hippos or crocs in it)...
but alas...
it is late at night once again...
and we did not plan much time for computer blogging, when we are busy all day exploring and making new friends...
So here's a few photos to keep you intrigued until later:



Scared getting on Egypt Air








Beautiful Alabaster Mosques

 


Ahmed explained Islam to us




Cairo is huge +22 million people!




Sooq Market- big load





Hookah?

 


Ahmed & Les, cool lemonade




Piles of pita & falafel! yum!




January Revolution t-shirts!




Daily wrestle w/ pyramids right out our room!!




Take away falafel breakfast, 20 cents!




Noa & our awesome guide Ahmed




Climbing a Great pyramid...Noa remembers how many blocks.




We are REALLY here & loving it!




Little locals love "surfer boy"




Everybody loves a camel




Everybody loves Les (or his money??)




Buddy does the Sahara!




Poor little donkeys get the burden of life.





Cobras + oldest ever Step Pyramid by Imhotep 

 





Sheik Abu Kahn shared his Suite with us!



And don't forget that Sphinx!



Dogs Around the World by Susie

Sometimes, when you're traveling and you have the camera strapped around your neck...looking like a total tourist, but actually hoping other people will think you're a professional photographer...crouched for that close-up shot or twisting the zoom lens to bring the remote ruin in pristine focus...when you spy...a friend, a cute little 4-legged friend. Okay, so much for the ancient, famous, wonder of the world just 20 steps away. I'm stopping and saying "Hi" to that dog. Maybe he barks in German or Italian or Spanish, but it doesn't seem to matter to our canine buddies because they all know what "ahhhh, good boy, come here, good boy!" means in English. Seeing all these happy, lazy, loyal pups around the world makes me miss our good boy Tiki back home. Here's a few friends we've played with on our trip:

Nappin' Shepherd in Athen's



Egyptian Pyramid guard dog




Happy Turkey puppy in Ephesus



Oia Mediteranean guy

Parthenon Pal

Peru Pooch

Little Roman ruler

Santorini sisters (tugging on undies!)

Surf dog in Lima

Our favorite, a Duiker "dog" in Kruger, Africa! We named him "Tidbit"

I Love Gelato in Rome!

Too many flavors for me to choose!

I am living off lasagna and gelato

Long lines mean this place has the BEST gelato in the City!